This post is a test since we have not updated it for sometime. We are getting ready to start a new journey to Europe.
An event like no other – Ocotober 7 – 10, 2019
What an amazing way to end a two month journey in the RV, dry camping at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. We camped in the rv at one of the VIP campgrounds located adjacent to the Launch Field, a very short walk to the to the launch field.
For nine days in October, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta creates an enchanted world of special-shaped balloon rodeos, twilight balloon glows, and vibrant balloon-filled skies.
Colorado RV Trip August – October 2019
Our initial trips in our new RV were to Jacksonville, FL and Hilton Head, SC. David completed Radiation on August 14 and had follow-up appointments with his doctors on August 20th. On August 21st we departed Jacksonville in our new RV, with Mayo Clinic in our rear view mirror, headed for Colorado and New Mexico.
First stop in Colorado, was Chatfield State Park in Littleton, CO, a suburb of Denver. After 4 nights, we moved to our Carl and Julie’s driveway for a few days. We celebrated being back in Denver with a Barbeque and friends.
Next stop was Green Ridge Campground near Grand Lake, CO. This was a good test for the RV where we boondocked, no hookups, using water from our fresh water tank and generator to give our batteries a daily charge.
We covered northern, central and southwestern Colorado during this trip. It was great timing for us to enjoy: the sound of a Elk bugle in Rocky Mountain National Park; cycling Breckinridge and Frisco’s great bicycle paths; soaking in the Hot Springs in Mt. Princeton; seeing the ruins at Mesa Verde National Park; camping with family; Colorado fall colors.
In Ridgeway, Colorado, our son and grandkids camped with us in their RV. We had fun roasting marshmallows and making smores with the grandkids. Ridgeway is where we enjoyed Colorado’s fall colors. Our final stop in Colorado was Pagosa Springs.
Europe with the whole Family (almost)
One of the mysteries of the universe to me is how does a trip idea spark into reality. I decided, it usually starts with people talking smack. Bantering back and forth, upgrading to one-up-man-ship, general family stuff. Then there is that nanosecond that one person says something meaningful and the concept of “I bet we could do that” appears. A spark! then it is just a logistic puzzle.
Chase, our first graduating grandson had been told many times he could travel when he was older and when he had a destination in mind. At one family gathering, he opined that he would like to see how cars (fast cars of course) were created. That, to him, was a worthy reason to travel. Some internet research showed Maserati, Ferrari, BMW, Porcha had factory tours . . . wow, I bet we could do that; go to Germany and Italy.
The dinner included Jonathan and Janet, who joined the car banter and one-up to join the with a full family destination. We would fly through London or maybe Paris. Houses on Airbnb are reasonable, if we timed it properly, we could leave following Chases’ graduation. A rough budget was concocted, and they said, I bet we can do that. And spark! It was all done except the logistics.
Yes, there were a lot of logistics. The only unbeatable one, however, is the unforeseen cancer diagnosis that David faced and the associated chemotherapy. The doctors, STRENOUSLY, said no travel, no foreign adventures, no – don’t think about it, just no. Janet’s mother, Evelyn, decided to join. We wouldn’t want to waste the senior citizen tickets to all these juicy destinations.
We opted for a house just outside Paris. It did require a 30-minute commute into the city each day, but it also allowed us to get to know a small town, the French bakery on the corner, the pizza place by the train station and many trips to the grocery store for our daily provisions. Our first day we started with a Seine River Cruise to get the view of the whole city and we had our first of many crepes. Paris is, after all, one of the most appealing, glamorous, and romantic of all the cities. The Eiffel Tower was a must; the view from the top is spectacular. The Eiffel Tower at night is another must because of the golden light. Our mistake was that we forgot to notice the train stopped running at 11, and it was a long taxi ride home.
The Arc De Triomphe, Versailles, the d’Orsay, Moulin Rouge and Palace of Versailles are some of Paris’ other famous landmarks. Paris is loaded with interesting and attractive sights. Paris, France: truly a memorable experience.
The Chunnel to London, the Eurostar high speed train, is certainly speedy; the journey took 2 and a half hours.
Every city has some history. London possesses more than 2,000 years but yet it is totally modern. Walking down the street brings you face to face with icons: the Thames, landmarks like Big Ben, theTower of London, and St Paul’s Cathedral.
There are the distinctive cabs, shopping at Harrods (Versace), enjoying high tea in Notting Hill. A day trip to Windsor to watch the changing of the guard and the best of all Trooping of the Colors (the Queen’s birthday) at Buckingham Palace.
London has the best theatre scene in the world, we saw The Lion King at the West End the first professional theatre event for the grandkids! What a place for your first experience.
But this trip began with need for speed and fast cars. Stuttgart, Munich and Marella, Italy are home to some of the best car companies in the world. Car production lines have two components: the body assembly and the power train assembly. Eventually “they marry” and voila you have a car. Each company does things different, some consolidate the clients’ accessory choices in a moveable rack that accompanies the car through the assembly process, they have various automation or robotic technology Lamborghini makes their entire care by hand. All had a museum highlighting the history of the company and their classic cars. And every single day, Chase smiled more than I have ever seen. A spark! I’m so glad we did that.
Out with the Old and In with the New
We welcomed an addition to the family, a new RV, a 2019 Jayco Greyhawk Model 30Z, a 32′ Class C.
With a home in Florida, it was time to downsize our RV. March 2019, we sold our 2014 Keystone Montana Fifth Wheel and 2008 Chevrolet 3500 HD truck.
In addition to selling our RV we traded our 2015 Honda CRV and purchased a 2018 Chevrolet Equinox and configured it to be towed behind the Jayco. This gave us the opportunity to drive/ride together in the RV and share the driving experience.
The Jayco afforded us a home at Mayo Clinic during David’s cancer treatments during the spring and summer of 2019. First long trip in the Jayco was a two month trip to Colorado (see blog post).
Cancer Diagnosis
March 4, 2019, David underwent surgery to remove his right upper lung lobe. The lobe contained a 1/2 ” nodule, first diagnosed in 2016, has doubled in size. During that surgery, the nodule and 16 lymph nodes were removed. The nodule and 2 lymph nodes were positive for cancer. David has been diagnosed with Stage 3A lung cancer. Two weeks after surgery he was riding over 50 miles a week on his bicycle and walking 4 miles.
Treatment plan included: 4 Chemo treatments starting in April and concluding in June. Once Chemo treatments were completed he started 5 weeks (25 sessions) of radiation treatments. Great news – Subsequent PET scan showed no cancer remaining.
August 14, David completed all treatments and rang the special bell. David “rang the bell” at Mayo Clinic’s Radiation Oncology department in Jacksonville, FL. The plaque above the bell, states victory never felt so sweet.
Great News! November 2019, David completed his three month CT scan and follow up consultation appointments with his doctors. Good news – cancer did not show up in this scan. He will continue CT scans every three months for two years.
2018 Colorado Christmas
We had a great time visiting family at our son’s house in Colorado for Christmas 2018. Karen had a special gift for each family member, a Grossman Family photo book.
We reminisced family events through this book, bringing laughter and tears to each of us. We had a great time at the Glenwood Springs Vaudeville Holiday Show. Sitting around the dining table we made ginger bread houses and played Uno. Being Floridians, ‘Baby Its Cold Outside’.
Prince Edward Island
We entered Prince Edward Island via the saltwater road. The 14-mile, 75 minute trip across the Northumberland Strait from Caribou, NS to Wood Island PEI by ferry was the perfect choice. The breeze was brisk and the sea air cool and the scenery was spectacular. This is the holy grail of our trip. The ultimate destination. The destination that beats all other destinations.
The Confederation Trail is a gentle, meandering, rehabilitated rail line. It is living a new life as a multi use, crushed gravel cycling path connecting wetlands, bays and charming communities. The beauty of a converted train track is that the grade is never more than two per cent. We chose the section between St Peter’s and Morell. It is a picturesque, peaceful stretch, showing off the red dirt dunes covered with swaying grasses, buoys marking string after string of mussel socks, (mussel farming) and glimpses of the bay. We finished the ride in true Canadian style — poutine and really cold Cokes at a picnic table, visiting with other riders.
PEI National Park, near North Rustico, a small fishing village that specializes in seafood dinners and deep sea charters also has a paved two-way cycle trail. A nine km route lets you wind past the amazing, iconic red sandstone cliffs of Cavendish. You could not help but stop at the secluded coves and red-sand beaches. We finished the ride in true PEI fashion — Richards Seafood Shack. Fresh scallops and a cold brew (PEI’s Beach Chair Lager) overlooking the bay.
We prepared to ride the North Rustico Trail; even stopped at a deep sea fishing provider to clarify trail directions. We were on a charter boat heading into the ocean within the hour. He convinced us that spending all our time on the shore would be to miss half the story. Spontaneity is good. We caught mackerel and cod off the coast of PEI and it was really fun, a great way to see the island, plus we got to keep the fish! We also caught lots bottom feeders that we could not bring home, but were interesting to look at. Staff filleted our catch and fed the seagulls with the waste. They were magical. We finished this day with dinner at the Blue Mussel Cafe. Where the seafood is fresh, and the owners are fantastic. (They are also my cousins.)
Anne (with an E), as everyone knows, is my friend with a feverish imagination and unchecked enthusiasms who is perpetually seeking “kindred spirits”. Anne is peculiar and intelligent; she speaks in exclamations marks!!!! But the primary reason I love the movies and TV shows is they are filmed in my beloved PEI. And when I am in Denver or Florida or wherever, it is my way of introducing (or remembering) landscapes and cliff-scapes of this place I hold dear. PEI in a box, or PEI on demand. We did go to the musical Anne and Gilbert to enjoy the characters and story of this small, freckled and indefatigable girl who is perfectly imperfect. Then enjoyed the pedestrian mall and cafes of downtown Charlottetown.
It was sad to leave, the view of French River, the fishing villages, the rural roads and the red dunes, I think they beckon us back.
There is a phrase you hear in Canada’s Atlantic provinces “Come From Away”, it means you are welcomed as a visitor. When I phoned my cousins to invite them to dinner, they would ask “how long are you home for”, we were welcomed as family.
I cannot understate the emotional up side of visiting with family on PEI. From relearning about the acreage of my grandfather’s farm (150 acres) understanding the history of the homesteads, (there were 2) seeing how they have been lovingly restored by my cousins, to reminiscing, gathering for home cooked dinners, with family and their children and lots more storytelling, looking through old photo albums; finding pictures of my mother in her 20’s (she would be 99 this year) and me (I was 14) and connecting to the sights, names and vistas bring back happy times as a kid.
New Brunswick – Nova Scotia, Canada
A New Brunswick transportation official said, wistfully, that he lived in the ”drive-through province.” People drive through New Brunswick on the way to/from Prince Edward Island (PEI) each summer. I guess we are guilty of nearly the same, but we drove around New Brunswick for 10 days or so, here are some of the spots we enjoyed . . . on the way to PEI.
St. Andrews by the Sea was settled in 1783 by Loyalists living in Maine, who were peeved to find that their town, which they presumed to be in Canada, was in fact included in the United States after the American Revolution. They then dismantled their homes and floated them to New Brunswick on barges.
They weren’t the only ones who worked hard to settle there. In 1890, Sir William Van Horne, built a huge summer compound on Ministers Island, which can be reached only when the famous 28-foot tide is out. The rocky pathway leading to the island — just outside of St Andrews, is under water for two six-hour stretches each day. We bicycled there- twice- at high tide, to check it out, and at low tide to cross over and try mountain biking over hill and dale, enjoying the views and the adventure of it all.
At Hopewell Rocks and at the St. Martins’ sea caves, it is easy to feel the power of the Bay. The cave, at St. Martins’, is only exposed during low tide, where you can walk on the ocean floor to explore the cave. It’s all about extremes here—extreme tides, extreme weather and also extremely good food. We enjoyed the food of my youth. Since my mother was raised in this region, I gobbled date squares at the bakery, slowly, and delicately inhaled fish cakes with green tomato relish on the side, and then . . . fish stew with the freshest lobster, scallops, mussels and shrimp that could be found, probably that mornings take from the boat ramp in town. Each bite, a gastronomic event that took me home, to 50 years ago.
At Alma, the Upper Salmon River empties into the Bay Of Fundy. At low tide, if you stand at the river’s mouth, you see water flowing out. A few hours later, birds and driftwood float upstream, and eddies form where currents meet. At high tide, the estuary looks like a giant lake. We were looking for moose, at the only one we saw was in front of the local gift shop!
Every summer, people from around the world visit Peggy’s Cove in Nova Scotia. The surrounding rustic village, with piles of lobster traps and colorful boats bobbing in the bay, The rugged coast, the mighty Atlantic breaking over ageless rocks. Tall lighthouses stand sentinel. The day we picked the fog was thick, the air had a drizzle, and our experienced was softened. By the light available for photography, by the chilly day in the harbor.
We arrived at Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, a star shaped fort, just in time for a daily firing of the noon canon by the Royal Artillery, a long standing Halifax tradition. Here historical reenactors conduct marching drills, and explain life at an 18th century outpost. The long, lingering notes of a solitary bagpiper filled the inner yard of the fort before being joined by the sounds of drums and marching feet. The music signaled the start of the 78th Highlander regiment’s daily muster parade. Halifax is also the place where the Titanic rescue ships put into port. There is a cemetery there for some of those who died.
Lunenburg NS is home to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where the Blue Nose II a fishing and racing gaff schooner calls home. The original ship was wrecked in 1946, and became an important Canadian symbol because it won a race among fisherman and became the pride of Nova Scotia. Today, Blue Nose II is a tall ship and represents Canada in sailing festivals around the world.
Cape Breton coast became a feast for the ears, the eyes, the stomach; and pure hell for Karen’s legs. The Celtic Shores Coastal Trail is a 92 km (57mi) multi use trail along a former rail bed. It is a well maintained packed gravel trail. It has stunning views, switching from ocean coastal to inland river and then forested landscapes. But even better, the surrounding communities are rich in Celtic culture. We easily jumped of the trail to grab lunch and be entertained at the Celtic Interpretative Center in Judique.
In western Cape Breton, the hills are alive with the sound of music. So are the parish halls, the pubs, even several barns. It’s a joyful noise — one made with fiddles, accompanied by pianos, bagpipes or guitars and underscored by the pound of dancing feet. “Ceilidhs” pronounced KAY-lees, are old school kitchen parties combining music, stories and dance. It is infectious; it starts with an involuntary head bob, and perhaps a convulsing knee, before you know it you think square dancing could be in your future. It is just old-fashioned fun, and we could not get enough. We went out nearly every night, and recorded the joyful noise to upload to the blog.

This warm hospitality was the backdrop to our planned time on the Cabot Trail. The road loops around mountains, along rivers and through the Highlands National Park of Canada. On the west side of the island, the hills get steeper, the roads get twister and the views are more stellar. It is the kind of place where you find a quiet spot to sit and take it all in.
And as the final surprise, you know who was here before us? Alexander Graham Bell. Born in Scotland, he sought familiarity and space as he worked on his ideas. He found it here in Baddeck, Nova Scotia (New Scotland) and his children donated the results of his work in communication — the telephone prototypes —aerospace — In 1909, the first Canadian airplane, the first hydrofoil. The man was brilliant. This driving, on the way to PEI, was so much more than I could have anticipated.
click here for sampling of Fiddle Music
Video of folks playing the Fiddle at The Barn on Cape Breton Island, NS
Bay of Fundy – Hopewell Rocks
Hopewell “Flowerpot” Rocks, is one of the most spectacular places to experience the Bay of Fundy in all of New Brunswick. The famous, towering flowerpot rocks were created by the winds and tides over millions of years. The late cartoonist/entrepreneur Robert Ripley of Ripley’s Believe it or Not saw the urn-shaped, vegetation-topped rocks in 1936, thought they looked like giant flower pots and gave them their vivid name.
The Bay of Fundy is 170 miles of craggy cliffs, thundering waves, and ecological wonders. The size of the funnel shaped bay helps create the world’s most extreme tides. Water levels rise and fall by as much as 48 feet every day when tons of seawater crash into the shore. See photo showing the tide change for August 13.
The park ranger explained “We get 160 billion tonnes of water in and out of the Bay of Fundy each tide, you would need to collect the water that thunders over Niagara Falls for one year and nine months to be seeing the same amount that we get in and out daily here.” You’re going from bare ground to fifty feet of water every six hours. Nothing gentle and leisurely about the ebb and flow of these tides.
With narrow stalks of soil and bulbous tops, the rocks form fantastical, asymmetric shapes. They are topped with tufts of trees and greenery. It’s as if they’ve been carved by a giant sculptor with a taste for whimsy; the giant sculptor is the sea itself.
“The soil has a unique composition-a mix of sediment and sandstone. They’re both soft and easily eroded.” He indicates the very tops of the formations. “Combine that with a top layer of firm soil and high tides that range between twenty-five and fifty feet, and this is what you get.”
Part of the Hopewell Rocks experience is a beach walk along the ocean’s floor among the flowerpot-like formations. We had timed our visit so we could take a guided tour of the area when the tide was completely out. Here you are literally walking on the ocean floor. We happened to visit with the new moon, which also means the largest differential in tidal extremes. We were greeted by a team of scientists who asked visitors to spread out at the waters’ edge. With the lowest tide (minus 1 foot) out for only 10 minutes or so once a month, scientists are researching “life at the edge”. So 60 volunteers spread out to help search for/document the types/numbers of creatures (soft shell crabs and worms) existing in that small strip of ecosystem. Visually, the mud flats were one of the highlights of our visit, you can peer out at a vast landscape of mud that is exposed due to the falling tide.
Visiting Hopewell Rocks isn’t quite complete until you return at high tide to venture around the formations by kayak. Jokingly referred to as obstacle kayaking, threading your way thru narrow openings and openings in the rock. The big difference though, was the number of people around. When we were kayaking among The Rocks, there was no one else in sight. It was surreal having such a beautiful place to ourselves. Paddle alongside cliffs that plunge from the green forests of Fundy National Park into the Bay, drift into the wave-carved sea caves, and take a rest on one of Fundy’s hidden beaches that are swallowed twice daily by the highest tides in the world. The Bay of Fundy is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that features extraordinary rock formations that are scoured by the tides. View the rugged coastline and the amazing land and marine ecosystems at sea level.
Reaching the launch site we were treated to the sight of thousands of Sandpipers – or at least I think that’s what they were as they make up the bulk of the two million shorebirds that visit the Bay of Fundy every summer. They come to the Bay of Fundy to fuel up on the nutrient rich mudflats for their trip to South America. It was a treat to see them – even from a distance. I really fell in love with these little birds, catching them in their annual migration down south. I couldn’t peel my eyes away from the absolutely majestic scenery.
Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor
After 5 days of driving, we finally arrived in Bar Harbor Maine and setup the RV just outside Acadia National Park. This stop is the start of our summer journey, Maine and the Canadian Maritimes. On this first leg we are joined by Irene and Jim who live in Boston, a mere 5 hours away, and we are all enjoying their first visit to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park.
When in Maine . . . . Skip the fancy restaurants and choose a lobster shack. Wearing plastic bibs, we got down and dirty, tearing a lobster apart with our fingers. Sitting elbow-to-elbow at wooden tables on a warm evening, with a breeze off the harbor, this is the perfect way to say, “Welcome to Maine!”
What makes Acadia so special for me is the juxtaposition of granite mountains and ocean, dense forest and sandy coves, lakes and tidal pools. The geological extremes are the result of glacial activity and a melting process that totally shaped the area. It was the first National Park east of the Mississippi.
The weather on the Maine coast can be shifty. Up on Cadillac Mountain the sea mist rolled in, you couldn’t see a thing. Then, the wind would blow and off in the distance white puffs attached themselves to islands. It is all very moody, and in the end was fun to photograph.
We enjoyed a two hour excursion along the park’s “carriage roads” that loop up hill and down dale. “About 45 miles of gravel road were designed and built in the early 20th century by John D Rockefeller Jr.”. The financier once owned much of the park’s 75 square miles and spent summers here. On these lanes, no motorized vehicles are allowed (not even e-bikes), horses do the work; we admired the scenery in comfort, without building up a sweat – as we traveled over – or under – elegant stone bridges. We saw maples, aspen, birch and soaring white pines.
The best way to view the park, of course, is from the water. We chose the 4-masted “Margaret Todd” sunset tour. The boats’ crew hoisted the sails, we traveled into the bay, with a glass of wine, live music, good friends, this had all the right elements. Except one…. the sun. Unfortunately, the clouds became thicker, the mist turned to rain, yes, the weather here is shifty. After all the point of being at sea is all about enjoying the ride, feel the boat’s moods and the weather whipping the sails.
Then there are our trusty kayaks, for years they have provided us with exercise, beauty, and a singular way to leave people behind. I love being in our inflatable Hobies’, especially when the loons are wailing.
The next day Dave and I took a course on photographing coastlines. I hope it serves us well as we travel through the Canadian coasts.
Full Time Travel and Beyond………
Full time travel is an incredible journey, and if it’s something you want to do, I highly recommend joining the band of travelers who sell everything they own to travel the world.
Travel is a personal journey and an individual experience, so it really doesn’t matter where your travel style falls in the whole tourist vs traveler debate. There is no right or wrong way to travel, as long as you’re happy with the way you’re experiencing the world, it doesn’t matter if you travel full time, or come home to a permanent base.
That said, we recently committed to a permanent base. In May, we moved to Florida, drained our savings account; and bought a house!
For all the advantages of full time travel, after multiple years on the road there are certain comforts of home you begin to crave. Small things like having neighbors come over for a bbq, or to watch the sunset. Living in something bigger than a hotel room or a 350 sq foot trailer. Ironically enough, you begin to crave the mundane things you were trying to escape: a schedule, possessions (like a comfortable couch), extra bedrooms, enough to invite people to your house.
Time to get excited about a trip, and time to reflect and appreciate the experience upon return. Half the fun of travel is the build up and anticipation, but when you’re experiencing one destination after the next, there’s not a lot of time for that. Nor is there time to sit and reminisce or organize your photos when you’re already taking new shots of the next.
When you’re traveling in rapid succession, it can be difficult to not compare everything you’ve seen to something you saw the week before, and when you’re so exhausted from jet-lag and transit it’s difficult to stay enthused. There’s no right or wrong way to travel, and what’s right for one person will always be completely different from the next.
The period of our life dedicated nomadic travel was a remarkable one, and allowed us to see so much more of the world than we would have otherwise. Full time travel was a blast, but everything in life is but a chapter.
The new digs are located in “The Villages” – about an hour Northwest of Orlando – is the largest retirement community for ages 55 and up in the nation. At any given time, multiple groups are gathered throughout the community’s more than 50 recreation centers participating in anything from arts and crafts to zumba and pickleball.
Our new digs are located in a lock and leave community. We wanted something other than a maintenance-heavy home. Amenities, like pools and recreation courts are ours to enjoy (without their upkeep), are an advantage of the lock and leave lifestyle. I guess we were ready to simplify our life while still maintaining the ability to catch a flight from a major airport (Orlando) and to enjoy the RV for trips long and short. There is an RV club here, perhaps we can join other groups. When we are HOME (oh) it is a short jaunt to great restaurants, shops, cultural outlets, and nightlife.
The community, geographically larger than Manhattan, features more than 40 golf courses, a polo arena and special events throughout the year. Most of the more than 123,000 residents travel via golf cart on the more than 90 miles of shared golf cart/bicycle trails. At night, villagers crowd into the community’s three town squares – one of which has a likeness to Disney – and listen to live bands, and With endless opportunities to remain active, many of the residents repeat one of The Villages’ unofficial mottos: “If you’re bored, it’s your own fault.” This growing old thing, looks far different than it did 10 years ago.
Family visited checking out the new digs one month after moving in. We had a great time, including going on a family cruise. Jonathan, our son, loves Siesta Key Beach and Siesta Key’s lobster pot restaurant’s lobster bisque.
All this talk about creating a permanent base has inspired us to take another RV trip. (We will never be bored!). Camp casa came over to meet his permanent brother, as it was loaded and away we go toward Maine and the Atlantic Maritime.
Amazing Borneo
What were we thinking when we were planning the nearly 4 week trip to Malaysia’s Borneo? Borneo is the third largest island in the world. The island is politically divided among three countries: Malaysia and Brunei in the north, and Indonesia to the south. Approximately 73% of the island is Indonesian territory. In the north, the East Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak make up about 26% of the island.
We spent a one week in the state of Sabah, town of Sandakan and nearby rainforest and islands, and a week in the state of Sarawak, town of Kuching. Our flight connections were through the town of Kota Kinabalu (KK). We stayed in KK twice, each time for nearly a week, once in downtown KK and one stay at a beach resort. The first weekend at KK, we purchased VIP tickets for the Kota Kinabalu Jazz Festival (KKJF), an annual fund raising jazz extravaganza jointly organized by the Rotary Club of Kota Kinabalu (RCKK) and the Society of Performing Arts Kota Kinabalu Sabah. We enjoyed the amazing concert and wine. We will always remember KK and it’s refreshing, chilled wine!
In KK we ate at Welcome Seafood, you choose from fresh seafood from tanks, cooked to you specifications and delivered to your table with steamed rice and fresh vegetables. We visited a KK shopping mall where we viewed a tribal dance. During the stay at the beach resort enjoyed happy hour each evening with a few beers and great music and took a sunset cruise to view amazing sunset. We enjoyed beach time and snorkeling at close by islands.
The animal life is amazing, but don’t discount the plants on Borneo. The world’s largest flower, Rafflesia Arnoldo, is found exclusively on Sumatra and Borneo. It takes 6-8 YEARS for the transition from seed to a cabbage size bud. When it blooms, it has 5 days of perfect before it begins rotting. Weighing in at 11 kg, its known as the “corpse” flower after the distinctive aroma of rotting meat it emits to attract pollinating insects. The flower has no stems, leaves or roots. It is a parasite living on the host vine. The lifecycle of the flowers are identified by their “day”. We saw 3 flowers: in their day 5, 6, and 7. Perfect, starting to rot and in full decline.
At sunrise, we depart Kota Kinabalu for Kinabalu National Park and Poring Hot Springs, a 130 kilometer journey by car to explore the highland rainforests that nestled beneath Mt Kinabalu which tops out at 4,095 meters. By lunch time Karen was traipsing across a canopy walkway with colorful butterflies fluttering around her, some 30 meters above the forest floor. David opted to pass — he is afraid of heights. Karen paused to catch her breath – a very deep one at that, as she soaked in the magnificence of Kinabalu National Park, Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Another stop was at the Mount Kinabalu botanical garden. We saw the pitcher plant, it grows on the ground and is a carnivorous reptile living only in North Borneo. They trap insects in their pot to provide needed nitrogen back to the plant. The botanical garden is home to 1,200 types of orchids. Not that we are orchid-maniacs but it was fascinating how many are endemic to this locale. The Sexy Lady Orchid or Dancing Lady Orchid is obviously named, and we saw the smallest orchid in Borneo and perhaps the world. It is called the pinhead orchid and is 2mm across.
This trip was both easier than we thought logistically, and more interesting than we anticipated. From a logistical viewpoint, everyone spoke English (a former British Colony). Uber, soon to be Grab was plentiful, 8gb, 30day sim card of Internet was $10. Shuttle buses, and side tours were easy to get and a very good value for dollar. The food was great, the people were so gracious and friendly, it did not feel over touristic like Thailand does these days. The water is warm and turquoise, with great snorkeling and diving. Plus there were so many experiences you can only have in Borneo. This has moved in the top 2-3 places we have ever been.
Jazmine helps an orangutan baby for a year!
Jazz and Mas, her new orangutan baby, have much in common: they both have a humbling “knowing” in their eyes, they are both very intelligent, they both make you smile, they both like to eat fruit and they both have a big interest in their finger nails. Jazz would help any animal, so when the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center said they needed help to feed the animals healthy food, Grandpa and Grandma knew Jazz would volunteer!
The plight of the world’s orang-utans has touched the hearts of many. This highly intelligent creature, sharing 97% of the same DNA as us, is lives only in Borneo and Sumatra.
Mas’ mom Analisa was born at the Rehabilitation Center in Kuching in 1996. Mas was born in 2016 on Malaysia Day. The Sarawak Forestry has updates on each of the apes every quarter.
PIT VIPERS! They didn’t mention that in the brochure!
Often, we use trip reports to guide our decision making process. We lean toward independent travel, but found a trip report on the benefits of hiring a guide for a trip to Bako National Park. Hmmmm. What would it say? well it was written by a person who was an independent traveler wondering why people hired guides — the trails are very well marked. But during her hike, she was bitten by a pit viper, a very poisonous snake, (and she preached since the traveling public does not know the habitats of poisonous snakes, a guide would be a wise investment, especially when they go down the trail first). We hired Geehay, an Iban tribesman. Besides a great tour of the park, and finding a pit viper, we chatted about the history of Sarawak and growing up in the jungle 50 years ago.
After disembarking from our boat, we headed along a boardwalk that snakes through a swampy mangrove area to the island proper. We did see some Proboscis monkeys, perched in trees foraging for seeds, leaves, mangrove shoots and unripe fruit; and we saw a wild boar. These Bornean Bearded Pigs dig in the ground with their snout to search for food (rooting). The extent of rooting was quite severe, and in some areas where numbers of feral pigs are high, they can uproot most of the ground surface. Then we headed into the jungle and along Telok Paku, one of the paths with reportedly good wildlife sightings and some amazing rainforest hiking.
About 45 sweaty minutes later, we come out to a secluded little beach at the end of the trail. After taking a short break to enjoy the views of the beach, we headed back to the trail head. As we came out into the open area of the mangrove, Lady Luck smiled upon us. There, sitting in some trees close to the boardwalk, were the Jimmy Durantes of the monkey world, the proboscis monkey. They were chowing down, climbing from tree to tree in search of food.
Sarawak (Kuching) also has an Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Many wildlife species face the plight of endangerment for exploitive reasons (Palm Oil Plantations). On the other hand, many tourist attractions cage, hunt or manipulate wildlife in order to exploit them for commercial profit. As an animal lover and traveler, there had to be a middle ground of enjoying and learning about wildlife, while not endangering their well-being.
Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre is a 1,500 acre sanctuary established in 1975 committed to the rehabilitation of rescued and orphaned orangutans. It is not a tourist attraction, or a park to go hiking in… Semenggoh houses 28 semi-wild orangutans who are free to roam in the wild. The sanctuary is open and welcomes public to observe the orangutans only during feeding times. The rangers lead you through the forest to a raised wooden feeding area for the orangutans. Seeing orangutans is not guaranteed. If they do not make an appearance, this is actually a good thing, as it means the center has done a good job reintroducing them back to jungle life and they are able to source food in the wild.
We did see orangs; a mother and her baby, who was born in the sanctuary, and a few other apes who were taking advantage of the available food. The rangers here take their job very seriously as they throw bunches of bananas, coconuts and jackfruit are piled on the feeding platform. “We still know little about how they think and communicate,” the ranger explains, as mother and baby do somersaults. “They’re like us in so many ways, but they’re still wild creatures. Our work here is about making sure they can stay that way.”
Sabah’s longest river
In the morning we wake to birdsong, the moist air from the previous night’s rain covers the misty river, the jungle is in full chorus. Our boat putters along the Kinabatangan River (Sabah’s longest at 560 kilometers), the surface a glistening mocha fondant in the early-morning light under a sky of silvery sateen.
The area is only accessible by boat, our lodge the Bilit Rainforest Lodge – as good an example of rustic luxury as I’ve seen. In the mornings and afternoons, we took river cruises in one of the lodge’s fiberglass boats. The shallow vessels felt like they would not be much defense from the crocs in these swampy waters.
On the 2 hour trip, we spotted packs of mischievous macaques, a bunch of comical looking proboscis monkeys scrabble in the branches. Their enormous, Gonzo-like orange noses are unmistakable, even as they leap from the branches in a boisterous acrobatic dance. We also find our first wild orangutan, a blur in the distance that became clearer with binoculars. The sun starts to color the banks, thick with vines, tree roots and tangles of lush foliage, as we continue the forest roll-call of wildlife. There were monitor lizards, tree snakes and a tiny blue-eared kingfisher hungrily studying the water, and the birds: from rhinoceros hornbills to purple herons. On a night safari another world became alive: owls, small snakes wrapped among the plants and birds settled down for the night. All captured by the eyes of our own Captain Eagle Eye, who could spot a small bird under the leaf, while piloting the boat. So many things to see and try to put into your memory bank: like what a rainforest looks like, the density of the forest floor, the images of monkeys pacing on the edge of the river near sunset, and how closely the palm oil plantations are to the rivers edge – taking away precious habitat.
The Kinabatangan River, is lined with protected reserves, making it a good place to spot not only wild orangutan, but Pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and all of Borneo’s native hornbill species as well. Likened to as a “mini-Amazon”.
Jonathan Junior – Turtle ambassador
Because he believes he CAN make a difference. Because he has a huge heart and a soft spot for turtles everywhere. Because he wants to see turtles flourish. Jonathan Junior is a turtle ambassador. While we visited Turtle Island Park, Grandpa and grandma kept saying how much Jonathan would enjoy this experience. One way to share it with you is to adopt the nest we found that night in your name. With Jonathan’s symbolic adoption he contributed to turtle conservation efforts, and raised awareness about this important cause. Thank you, Jonathan! When the turtles hatch (approximately mid-May) the rangers at the park will send you a picture of the babies and another picture of them running into the water!
Marine turtles are a key species in the marine ecosystem and adequate nesting sites are a rarity due to man-made threats. The seven species of sea turtles we have today have been around for over 110 million years. For some, it is surprising to hear that six of those seven sea turtle species are endangered. It is no wonder that sea turtle conservation has become a worldwide phenomenon. As with all living things, sea turtles play an important role in maintaining the balance of the ecosystem. Like regular lawn mowing, sea turtles help to keep grass beds healthy with their constant grazing. Grass beds need to be cut short in order for them to continue expanding across the ocean floor. Seagrass beds act as breeding grounds for many species of underwater creatures. If sea turtles go extinct, seagrass beds will go abandoned, while a number of fish and crustaceans are left with no place to breed, causing a decline in marine life.
In addition, sea turtles provide beaches and dunes with necessary nutrients which they would otherwise not be able to get. Therefore, the little vegetation which grows on dunes are grown because of the nutrients provided by sea turtles. Every year, sea turtles lay hundreds of eggs per nest, and about three to seven nests per season. Not all of the eggs will hatch, and those that don’t provide an excellent source of nutrients which allow stronger vegetation to grow on the dunes. This vegetation keeps the beach sand in place to protect it from erosion. Therefore, sea turtle conservation is important for the marine and beach/dune ecosystems.
Marine turtle populations around the globe are threatened with extinction, having been heavily over-harvested and having their habitat increasingly destroyed by mankind. Nowadays, critical measures are urgently needed to safeguard the few remaining turtle nesting, feeding and breeding sites on beaches and at sea; as well as their migratory pathways.
Turtle Island
Selingan island, part of Turtle Island Park, is the only island in this region that tourists can visit. The tracks of a turtle are unmistakable. As the sea turtle crawls, it pushes back sand with each flipper stroke, creating a 25-inch wide double trail of sculpted sand. The sweeping limbs of the sea turtle, undulating from ocean to the dune and back, mark a distinctive path of a labor-intensive journey. She digs her nest and releases (in our case) 93 ping-pong ball-size eggs. These private, awkward moments are the moments in which scientists know sea turtles best. We watch her big ancient eyes, her bulky, ungrateful form, and we recognize the impossible hope that follows her flippered path.
The eggs are harvested immediately by the naturalist for placement in the hatchery where they are outside the reach of predators or poachers. Each nest within a fenced enclosure is marked with the date, and number of eggs placed, which will later be compared to the number of hatchlings that emerge.
The hatchlings that emerged from their nest today (from 60 days prior to our visit) were released on the beach where infant turtles rush to the waves. We feel the impossible hope of these tiny creatures pushing their bodies into the vast, deep ocean to the tangles of sea grass or the sharp teeth of propellers and predators. We understand it. We’re afraid for them, but we have hope too, that some will make it, some will come back just like their mothers did, chasing the same moonlight their grandfathers’ grandfathers chased, too, for millions of years before them, before we humans ever set foot on any shore to watch. Over the entire night the conservationists helped 14 turtles nest; with a total of 966 eggs transplanted and 179 hatchlings released to the sea.
Amazing Sandakan
Its black fur is hard to spot from the high walkway, but when you see the shiny, golden, crescent-shaped fur collar around its neck, you realize you’ve spotted the tiniest bear in the world – a Bornean Sun Bear. Every individual bear has a unique fur collar like us humans have our fingerprints, and that’s how their keepers will know who’s who. The Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center is in Spielok, where 44 rescued ex-captive or orphaned sun bears live.
Sun bears look incredibly cute and cuddly, especially because they have a tendency to hang their long, pink, and thin tongue out of their mouth most of the time. Sun bears are also known as a “honey bear” because of their particular appetite for honey or a “dog bear” because of their small size (smaller than a St Bernard). Sun bears are native to South-East Asia and are the smallest of the world’s eight bear species. They have black, shiny pelts and extremely long, slender claws. They are critically endangered, since so much of their habitat has been destroyed by the palm oil plantations. Plantation land clearing crews, find them and take them home, thinking they have a new pet — that is until the claws grow so sharp!
We had our last lunch at this lovely English Tea House, and realized that today would be the last time we would see our trusty guide, Mr. Man and our wonderful driver Mr. Moon. They have worked so hard to share a land they obviously love with us. And we are grateful to them. After lunch is the Sandakan town visit.
Just outside of town we find the Puu Jih Shih (Syh) Temple. Built in 1987, the beautifully ornate temple, immaculately cared for, has some wonderful views over the bay and fishing village below. We stepped into the temple – and enjoyed the extravagant decor with the blaze of red and gold, writhing dragons and golden Buddha statues. Puh Jih Shih Temple was featured on The Amazing Race 4 episode 10.
We stopped at a fishing village in outside Sandakan, houses here are mainly wooden and built on stilts in the sea, fronting the coastline. As we took a walk along the wooden boardwalk we see all the comforts of home, electricity, air conditioning and cable TV, we asked where the sewer lines were and learned that residents here basically dump their waste into the sea bed. There are many houses with well-tended verandas, the outdoor space for those living here. An interesting insight of the traditional way of life of the local people who have been living here for several generations.
People love markets for so many reasons — top reason is the experience: seeing people, opportunities for impromptu conversations, the unexpected sensory delights. This is what draws people back, again and again, to their favorite markets. This is real life. Where grocery shopping is done, where fresh fish are brought directly from the sea and clothing is bought, and families enjoy meals. It is the right place to see the real people of the place you are visiting, no matter where in the world you find yourself.
Sir David Attenborough aired his documentary series, “Conquest of the Skies”, featuring Borneo’s Gomantong cave, home to a variety of bat species. We went to see Gomantong cave and its batty inhabitants. I think we’re in deep guano!
Gomantong Cave is home to over a million bats. These bats share the cave with birds called swiftlets, whose nests are prized as an ingredient in bird’s nest soup. The cave is also home to billions of cockroaches and beetles, who live in the massive piles of guano the bats produce. The entire cave is a massive ecosystem that relies on its populations of bats and birds.
Arriving at the cave entrance, I was instantly breath-taken by mysteriously beautiful view of the cave, a large shaft of light streaming down. Inside the cave, we discovered the base of a steep rock pile left by a collapse in the cave roof. Above the rocks, daylight streamed through a large hole some 200 feet above the floor – and at our feet, an enormous, chocolate-brown cone of guano rose. The mounds looked alive, the strange dank, ammonia smell in the air was laced with a faint familiar stench. As the beam of our torches picked up the movement, immediately the stench came to light (sic). It was a seething blanket of cockroaches! Cave cockroaches! The cave is alive! Cockroaches, cave centipedes, millipedes, beetles, worms, spiders – a variety of bugs and a closed ecosystem.
Native bats take shelter in the cave during the day, whereas the swiftlets rest in the night. This creates a 24-hour feeding ground for dung beetles and cockroaches, which the snakes subsequently feed on.
The edible-nest swiftlet, build nests on the cave walls that are purely from their saliva. The white nests are small but valuable. Per kg, of the quality found, here will cost approximately USD1,000 – USD2,000 in the open market. The swiftlets build their nest at night, after a day out searching for food. The new nest takes about 30 to 35 days to complete and once that’s done, and the mother lays a maximum of 2 eggs which she broods for 1 month. When the fledglings are old enough to leave the nest, the harvesting season begins. The harvesters must make sure that the nests are collected only after they are abandoned by the young swiftlets.
We emerged from the limestone cliff to a small cluster of timber long-houses used by those who collect the nests. Inside the cave, ladders of twined rattan vine and hardwood rungs hung from the ceiling at dizzying heights. The nest collectors will dangle from these ladders like flies in a spider web. Another type of ladder, made from a hardened bamboo poles, pivots around the cave to reach the highest nests.
The journey from the cave back to the entrance takes approximately 10 minutes. Along the boardwalk, surrounded by verdant foliage (elephant ears, the largest leaves I have ever seen) and cool FRESH air, we spotted the red leaf monkey! We hung around long enough to see them move from the sunny side of the boardwalk to the shaded side.
Sandakan is a magical place!
Why male orangutans have such weird faces
Today we are in Sarawak in Borneo and finally found a mature male orangutan. WOW! It was easy to notice they have strange flappy face-pads called flanges, which females find attractive – yet males may wait 20 years before developing them.
Mature male orangutans have large flappy cheek-pads, known as flanges. As far as females are concerned, they prefer males with them, over those without. Fully mature males are also twice the size of females and grow large throat sacs, all of which are characteristics associated with dominance. The long vocalizations of the flanged males also set them apart from an unflanged male Bornean orangutan. The long vocalizations help males to attract females.
But these traits can take a while to show. Some wild male orangutans take 20 years to grow flanges. Fully mature males are also twice the size of females and grow large throat sacs, all of which are characteristics associated with dominance.
A new study tries to explain why males take so long to grow their flanges. To discover this, researchers collected poo from 17 wild Bornean orangutans. The researchers then analyzed the hormone levels in the orangutans’ poo.
As soon as males begin to develop bigger cheek pads, their testosterone levels peak. “The very high testosterone levels of the one developing male in the study was a bit surprising but indicates the need for high testosterone levels to develop secondary sexual characteristics [such as cheek-pads]”. When a male becomes “fully-flanged”, his testosterone levels out again. As well as an advantage when it comes to finding mates, studies show that those with larger cheek pads are also healthier. Weaker and older males have shrunken flanges.
Check out the the collage at the end of the post.
Proboscis Monkey
The remarkable males sport big dangling noses, reddish flat top hairstyles, white tails and markings and pot bellies. The females on the other hand, are much smaller and have up-turned noses.
The male has a bigger nose than the female, and they use their big and long noses as a sex tool to … to… to attract the female. I wonder how do they kiss, huh. Another thing that amazes me is the “lipstick” between the legs of fully grown male proboscis monkey. It is red hot and pointing at 12 o’clock, always in ready mode to serve his wives. Basically, the male is having a lifestyle that every man on earth dreams of.
Lowland mangrove and riverine forests are their stomping ground and webbed feet help them out in this environment, but you’ll mostly see them leaping great distances from tree to tree. They hang out in large groups, usually with one dominant male, several females and their offspring and to the side you’ll often see a group of “bachelor males” angling to get in on the action.
Like many other primates, the proboscis monkey family is formed by a few wives and a dominant alpha male. Proboscis monkey is one of the biggest monkeys in the world. Besides their big noses, another thing that makes them very unique is their digestive system. The stomach of Proboscis monkey contains the special bacteria that can digest the cellulose and detoxify the harmful chemicals in the leaves. Proboscis monkey can’t eat banana. Anything with sugar will make the bacteria work very fast, causing fermentation that produces too much gas in their stomach, which can make them sick.
Set amid mangrove forest and reached via a track through an oil-palm plantation, Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary serves as a supplemental feeding station for the monkeys. The habitat around Labuk Bay is fragmented with relatively small patches of mangrove forest, and there is insufficient food and water to support the monkeys.
The story goes, that in 1994, the owner was in the process of land clearing to expand his empire and came across several troupes of proboscis monkeys living there. Curious, he learnt more about their plight and changed his plans so they could continue to survive in their natural habitat.
At most feeding times groups of proboscis monkeys descend from the nearby forest and mangroves and head to the wooden platform for a free meal. These monkeys are wild but highly habituated and often get very close to visitors. The behavior (and diet) of these proboscis monkeys is very different from the wild monkeys that live on the Kinabatangan River and other areas of Sabah and Sarawak.
Borneo Orangutans
As we waited in the sun, the small crowd began to grow antsy, scanning the trees for a sign. Finally, leaves began to rustle, and we collectively held our breath. Then a flash of reddish-gold was spotted between the green jungle leaves. Finally, the ropes giving easy access to the feeding station, began to wobble and our first orangutan appeared. It wasn’t long before more leaves began to rustle and we were joined by three more orangutans. They ate and played and relaxed, and we stood in awe, with cameras snapping.
Delicately, and without a second glance at her audience, she settled herself on the platform and began to eat her lunch of banana, papaya, bamboo shoots and watermelon. Watching her nimble fingers pick over the ripe fruits and the expression of pleasure passing her face, it was impossible to deny how closely related we are to these creatures.
On another day we were walking on the edge of Sepilok National Forest where we met Wilma. A ranger, who came along at just the right moment, explained that Wilma was 10 years old and was 3 months into her 9 month pregnancy. She had a miscarriage last year, and the rangers noticed she is moving with much more care this time around and has moved away from the hustle of the primary orangutan troop. We hung out with Wilma for nearly an hour. She ventured closer and closer — attracted by David’s eyes. It was like meeting an old friend, I hope she has a happy and healthy family.
If you love feeling the awe of the animal kingdom and enjoy seeing creatures in their natural habitat, don’t miss a visit to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. It is one of the very few places in this world where you can see the large and mighty orangutans living in the semi-wild.
Sepilok Rehabilitation Center opened in 1964, to take in injured and orphaned orangutans whose mothers have been killed by logging or poachers. Some have also been rescued from people who were illegally keeping them as pets. Rescued orang-utan usually need to be nursed back to health at the centre, before trained wardens teach them how to climb trees, find food and fend for themselves in the wild. They are then released into the surrounding forest reserve area, returning to the centre’s feeding platforms for supplementary food until the centre feels they have been fully rehabilitated and can be returned to the wild, deep in the forest or to one of the country’s national parks.
These intelligent orangutans live most of their lives in the trees. Seeing a large and powerful orangutan nimbly swinging through the trees by their long arms was certainly a wonderful sight.
Jungle trekking in Sumatra
We trekked in Gunung Leuser National Park (GLNP). It is one of the most biologically diverse habitats on the planet. The region is located in a remote part of Indonesia’s largest island and straddles the provinces of North Sumatra and Aceh. It is a land where mountains rise sharply from the lowlands with peaks that stretch out and into the clouds. The jungle, scarred at times with the occasional blemish of illegal palms, appears as an impenetrable giant green wall. It is a place where butterflies, insects and birds flutter about as though you’re in a giant terrarium. It is the incarnation of Avatar’s tropical world.
After an early morning breakfast of banana crepes and iced cappuccino, we crossed the Bohorok River. This river marks the start of the jungle trek trail. Do you remember that David is afraid of heights? Especially, if things are moving in an unpredictable fashion. The bridge swings, sways, creaks, is missing more than a few boards — you notice the sign that says no more than 6 orangs at any given time.
Orangutans share 97% of their genes with us. Lurking beneath those thick orange furs are the great ape’s deep, intelligent, searching eyes and uncanny human-like behavior. Orangutans live mostly solitary lives. They spend nearly all their time in the treetops, they wander widely, and for the most part they inhabit rugged forest or swampy lowland that’s hard for humans to traverse.
In the 1980’s and 90’s, some conservationists predicted that orangutans (orang = people, utan = forest, orangutan = people of the forest) would go extinct in the wild within 20 or 30 years. Fortunately that didn’t happen. Many thousands more orangutans are now known to exist than were recognized at the turn of the millennium. This doesn’t mean that all is well in the orangutans’ world. The higher figures come thanks to improved survey methods and the discovery of previously unknown populations. Conservationists on Sumatra estimate that only 6,000 survive there. Much of this loss has been driven by habitat destruction from logging and the rapid spread of vast plantations of oil palm, the fruit is sold to make oil used in cooking and in many food products. Animals can neither live in the palm plantations or off them, rendering the land biologically barren.
For centuries, scientists considered all orangutans to belong to one species, but in the past two decades new insights led researchers to see Bornean and Sumatran orangutans as distinct species, both of which are critically endangered. (In late 2017, a new species was identified in western Sumatra, genetically closer to the Bornean orangutan than the other Sumatran populations. It is distinct enough to potentially constitute a third species.)
Bukit Lawang, a village of around 3,000 people is the gateway to the adjacent GLNP. While you have to walk 15 minutes on a sidewalk from the roadway, the quaint surroundings are not primitive. Wander through local shops and you can buy trinkets and any kind of food — and you know your money goes to the locals. Or stop for a Bintang beer or banana juice on a balcony overlooking the meandering Bohorok River. Accommodation is authentic and affordable, often made from timber or other local materials.
The high-pitched, dental drill sound of cicadas fills the air, its the end of the wet season and the intense heat and supreme humidity create a steamy reminder that you’re deep in the tropics. The tracks are narrow and at times crude, but its wondrous to be surrounded by the visceral sights, smells and feel of the jungle; you could very well be in another century.
It is hard to describe what a humid, wet place the rainforest is. It might be 80 or 90 degrees, but with the high humidity, you’d feel like it was much hotter. David’s intolerance with heat and high humidity left him soaked in sweat. Although March is the “end” of the wet season every day there was rain. Sometimes a full force rainforest storm! The rain, usually was after our trek and during the evening hours, falls in buckets, full on wet with a lightning show the like of which I have never seen before. We sat in the dark in awe, (the electricity for the town goes out with the storm, which aids the light-show). In our guesthouse, there were 2 streams: directly beside and 50 feet in front of our room. There is nothing like going to sleep at night with the sound of a tropical rainstorm pouring down huge drops of water on your tin roof. After a hot day, the relative cool that accompanies the ran and the mesmerizing sound of the drops is a simple pleasure than cannot be compared, as you pull your sheet over yourself to fend off the damp cool that filters in through the screen windows.
After trekking for only an hour, wet through and through with sweat, our guide looks over his shoulder and says “orangutans ahead”. The aches in my legs disappeared, my adrenaline popped up and it was easy to move on down the trail. The sweat seemed a small price to pay for the privilege of seeing an endangered animal in the wild. We were so hot at some point, the guide found a giant leaf from the ground to fan David: “Sumatran air conditioning” he says.
At one point I was standing beneath a tree, above me the orangutan stretched out his arms to their full span, moved through the canopy by using his long-fingered hands and dexterous feet to clamber from branch to branch. The tree bent like a bow as his weight shifted, the guide pulled me out of the way, worrying that the branch would break, not that the orang would lose his grip. The orang had his eye on a young female a few trees over, and as she moved further into the jungle, he followed. Mating season is about to begin. Female orangutans give birth only every six to nine years. They actively rear their young for five years and support an active juvenile for another year or two. In the wild they may live as long as 55 years.
The rainforest is teeming with wildlife. Long-tailed macaques swing by to check you out and Thomas leaf monkeys, identifiable by their small head and triple Mohawk black and white fur, are not uncommon. We saw an entire family of white handed gibbons! They really have white hands! For the first time I saw a walking stick insect, about 5 inches long, it froze when we stopped to look at it. I am amazed the guides could find such a small, perfectly camouflaged insect..
We trekked in a 180 degree arc… we finished the day with only three miles of trekking and we once again encountered the river. “Jungle taxi” will take you back to town… there we go, floating down the Bohorok River with an inflated tube for approximately 30 minutes. A little bit of adrenaline, a splash of cold water and a whole lot of fun! We walked exhausted, but satisfied, back to Green Hill where we tucked straight into bed for a well deserved nap.
Which brings me to the story of the guesthouse. The staff, Tyson, Tameron, Ephram, Moose were the perfect hosts. Anton was a knowledgeable and patient guide. The luxury of staying a week allowed us to relax and have long easy conversations with the guys. We spent a day with each one, either trekking or having a picnic by the river. We are used to being the oldest guests, but these 20 somethings were so proud that we were healthy and willing enough to take on the challenges of the world.
The owners of Green Hill, Embra and his wife Andrea, a biologist and conservationist uses the funds from the guesthouse to support a school and library in one of the smallest villages. We brought school supplies to share and were lucky enough to go to a lesson. The kids here attend public school 5.5 days a week and come to English and art lessons on Sunday. Can you imagine kids in the USA going to school 7 days a week? That day, 21 kids came, Andrea said it was normally 35. There are lessons about conservation since these kids and their families literally live on the edge of the National Park and the future is in their hands.
Part Deux ends – next up…….
Part Deux of our journey ends as we disembark the dam ship Singapore. It was an amazing journey as we enjoyed western comfort when on the ship and amazing excursions throughout SE Asia as indicated in earlier blog posts.
Part Trois of our journey continues for another month: Singapore; Sumatra, Indonesia; and Borneo, Malaysia. Check back often for updates.
